Getting a massage is supposed to be a relaxing experience. Even when, say, you’re getting one to help cope with the authoritarian regime that has apparently taken over your once democratic country. Especially then.
Sadly, “relaxing” is not always how these massages pan out. In the 20 or so years that I have been paying for massages, I have found that sometimes things can go vaguely to dramatically awry. I realize that this is a bougie problem. I do. But since I’m shelling out the Benjamins for an experience (that’d be relaxation, temporarily forgetting about life), I have some observations/critiques I’d like to share. Call it a public service announcement or something.
My main problem may stem from the fact that my first acquaintanceship with massage was at a spa called Burke Williams (@Burke_Williams) in Santa Monica where I lived for a couple of years. I have never been one who cared all that much for saunas or steam rooms (am I the only person who feels she will die/asphyxiate/become water-logged in these joints?), and I don’t really get the appeal of dipping into a pool with naked ladies bobbing about. But at Burke Williams there is some sort of mist room that seems to have been created exactly for me and my hair/skin/inner emotional self. Mist jets out at room temperature; it is fabulous and feels like my ancestral natural habitat. Plus — more importantly – the massages were consistently awesome. Each and every one (except for the one where the massage guy asked me on a date. That’s a different more disturbing story).
Since Burke Williams, nothing has really lived up, though when I travel I’ve had some good experiences. Big shout out to a massage I got in Istanbul where my only complaint was that the lady asked me if I wanted my breasts massaged, which is apparently how the Europeans do. I did not, but didn’t want to be the uncool American, so I said yes. Mistake: Mine.
Then, again while traveling, there was the dude ranch in Montana that was my induction into the very serious and worldly problem of bad massages. I call the issue I encountered there (and other places – don’t mean to just hate on the Wild West) the limp handshake – massage version.
On this particular trip, a nearby dude ranch to our home base claimed to have hot springs and a spa, so we decided that on our second to last day we would reward ourselves for hiking around Yellowstone by getting ourselves some Montana massages (at NYC prices, but I digress).
The first problem was that there didn’t seem to be actual hot springs at the hot spring spa. It was more like an outdoor pool that was somewhere in the tepid to luke-warm range temperature-wise. Perhaps that should have tipped us off. It didn’t. The second problem was – wait for it – the massage itself. My first thought upon the commencement of said massage was “Did the masseuse call in sick and have some housekeeping/accounting/billing staff member fill in for her?” (To be fair, this was actually my friend’s first thought. My first thought was “Montanans don’t know from massage.”) So I lay there for an hour while the lady gently rubbed my back. “Rub” is generous though. Picture someone who doesn’t really want to give you a hug doing those formal light taps on your back that some do (hi, mom!). I mean, my 8 year-old gives a better, deeper massage.
After that, I should have been clued in that not all massages (or spas) are created equal, but I was the optimistic gal my friends know me to be. So I searched. And what I found time and again – and each time I was naively caught off guard – were massage therapists who likey the chat. The real problem here is that you never know who is going to be a chatter. You can’t tell, and that seems unfair. I get that it might get dull spending hour after hour not speaking, but part of what I am paying for is silence. I don’t want to make small talk, especially whilst only one of us is naked.
My worst experience on this front was a masseuse who told me – specifically and with great detail – why she had gotten divorced (there was embezzlement involved). I do not know what launched her into her saga, but suffice it to say that her ex sucked. The saving grace was that she gave a pretty damn good massage and went 15 minutes over without charging me, possibly since I had taken on the role of her therapist. But this was not my first or last experience with this particular issue. Why don’t I speak up, you ask? Because I do not want to piss off the person who is in charge of manhandling my body for the next chunk of my life.
I kind of blame Burke Williams for all of this, as I have not found her brethren here in NYC (sidebar: Bliss is NOT the same. It’s not. And please never tell me to go to the Mandarin as a solution to this pursuit. A) I’ve been there; B) it’s overly expensive (like don’t have prices on their website expensive) and C) I do not need or appreciate some the most fantastic views in the city while I am lying face down on a table). So because of that bastard Burke and her failure to exist in NYC, my quest for the perfect spa has veered me in the opposite direction: Places that offer no ambiance (I mean none), just massage.
My first exposure to this type of spot was in a place called “Salon de Tokyo” in Midtown, where the masseuses actually walk on your back (by the by, there are bars on the ceiling that they hold onto to avoid crushing, say, your vertebrae or spleen). But since the rest of the clientele (other than me, to be clear) were businessmen clad in suits in town from Japan – I was sharing locker space with these lads – I did not go back (excellent massage though).
What I have found in my crusade – the search is real, people – is that the best massage places are run by people who may also do Chinese acupuncture on the side (perhaps with no license). Sometimes you will find these places in your local nail salon. Don’t judge. I mean, one of my sisters does, but her husband, also a massage lover, is with me on this. Though okay, telling you a guy is on board with Asian women quietly massaging him might not convince you that these places are legit.
I, for one, am sold. For $48 (not a typo), you get an hour-long massage. No, the table isn’t as comfortable as good old BW. No, there is no privacy and you can maybe hear the person in the next cube. Yes, the staff might pause to answer the phone while she massages you (true story). But for that price, who cares?
What you will get at these places without having to specify is a deep — deep-ass, I should say – tissue massage. Don’t get me wrong. I “like” this type of massage as much as the next guy. I put “like” in scare quotes because let’s be real, while it’s going on, the massage hurts. That said, most of these massages shed years off my spinal-life so I’m generally willing to bear with the discomfort.
The problem is, sometimes the discomfort is actual pain of the intense variety. I’ve had deep tissue masseurs who are possibly/probably taking out childhood issues on my tight, knotted back. They’re kind of like the chatters, only they speak with their ferocious, almighty hands. The pain is such that I have been tempted to leap from the table and find that limp-ass lady from Montana.
Just last week, I went in for a massage where the woman looked….how do I put this…actually angry to see me. Like maybe I was intruding on her day/person/religious beliefs in a way I didn’t understand. She started out with a massage so painful that I may have inadvertently yelped out. I truly debated paying for my time and leaving, just so I didn’t end up with some sort of crippling and permanent back injury. But then (after she got off the phone or went on a cigarette break or something), she asked “too hard?” so maybe she wasn’t so angry after all, just Herculean-level strong. Naturally, in order to impress her with my fortitude, I said, “No, it’s all good!”
I know what you’re thinking. I’m a huge nebbish and maybe I should stop pretending to be someone I’m not (i.e. someone comfortable with bosom massage, chit-chat and/or intense pain). So maybe it’s not them and it’s me. It’s a theme that’s somewhat consistent in my life because I like to keep it real.
Still, if you haven’t tried these Chinese massage joints, do it. It’s no Burke Williams, but you’ll thank me (or judge me) later.